Costume National Drool Worthy

From Milan w/ Love: 5 Collections Worth Swooning Over

Friday, January 18, 2013Aaron Reese

It's that time of year kids. While the bleak existence of winter  looms over us like a dark cloud, the magic known as London, Milan and Paris fashion week are coming to fruition. Of course, this means we'll get to see our champions of menswear dish out something fresh and excited for the Autumn/Winter 2013 season.

Unfortunately, London Fashion Week was a tad underwhelming, but Milan was stellar! Paris is still delivering awesome collections, so I thought it'd only be appropriate if I showed you my Milan faves.

5. Gucci- Gucci took a militant approach to the runway this fall. Double breasted suits, exquisite trenches, and amazing outerwear were prominent with Gucci flare we've all come to love. The colors in the collection are worth noting. Seafoams, olive, fire-engine red, and signature Gucci black were interwoven into a collection that was seamless, yet effective.

4. John Varvatos- When it comes to menswear one can't deny that Varvatos is a staple, but beyond that I don't think much comes to mind for the label. This year's autumn collection was dark, eclectic and modern. This season suiting has been pretty epic on the runway and Varvatos makes no exception. The look is a blend of the classic British valor, and the edge of the modern man. On the Brit side think capes, canes, arm-warmers w/ suiting, top-hats and calf high boots. On the modern side ombre, multi-textured pieces, mesh-knit sweaters,  and updated outerwear. It's a brilliant fusion, and I'm thrilled to see the collection once it hits stores!

3. Dsquared- I've been raving about Dsquared lately, and I wish I could apologize for it, I truly do; but the truth of the matter is that the Canadian giants have been on a bloody menswear rampage, and I'm loving every minute of it. The inspiration for this years A/W collection was L.A. noir.  Nostalgia, like any grand design concept can be hit or miss, and I'm happy to say the twins killed it! They mastered the  balance between the noir quirk, and the vibrant Dsquared gent. Here we see 1950's inspired topcoats, but with vibrant hues, suspenders, bow-ties, pocket watches, cuffed denim, paisley prints, and the return of the vest, topped of with an insane array of top hats.

2. Fendi- LVMH veteran, Fendi wooed me in this year's Milan collections. On par with trend for next season's collections, Fendi showcased a lot of oversized outerwear, and typically I'm an advocate for slim and fitted, but it's something quite refreshing about the relaxed look. Suiting takes its reign in this collection as well, but what really steals the show are the mouth dropping fur pieces. I mean, it's fur. need I say more?

1. Costume National- The A/W collection for National was intensely sportswear focused, and like any solid collection the looks are a culmination of several  archetypes. The motorcyle jackets are definitely worth noting, but take a closer look at the vibes or the auras each piece showcases. There's something oddly ceremonial about the long coats, the all black suiting,  and the puritan-like hats. But the collection is just as vibrant as it is somber. The electric blues, the mole-hair sweaters, the ombre and graphic prints and asymmetrical zips all come together for a solid collection.

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